Hari Swchwighofer of Ural Motorcycles Europe says he had no trouble identifying me at the Vienna airport. "First I looked at the luggage and then I looked at the woman." Okay, so lugging a 60-inch duffel and a wheeled carry-on stacked with another duffel, I'm carrying more than the average traveler. And believe it or not, I only packed 3 pairs of shoes: motorcycle boots, trail shoes for trekking, and sandals. It's the gear, I swear! On our 1 1/2 hour drive to Linz I get a chance to grill Hari about the motorcycle. "I won't tell you the story of the bike," he says, with a twinkle in his eye, "or you won't like to take it." Needless to say, I dragged it out of him. Read the dispatch, here.