June 24, 2005
The light here is superb, greying to pink and yellow and finally to a deep blue before we turn completely away from the sun. I am sitting in the courtyard of a guesthouse in Orebic at the northwest end of the Peljesac Penninsula after riding only a few hours from Dubvronik. I got a late start - 11 am - and I dreaded the heat but the air was cool and kept me me sane. The road is very similar to our Highway 1 in California. I hate to keep making these comparisons, but think the South of France with Fiords, California's Highway 1 with Big Sur in the sea, the Amalfi Coast...a good winding road along a cliffside along a sea all blue sparkle glittering amongst humps and spikes of green mountains and stark rock. The road is perfect and now, on Saturday, there is no traffic to speak of. The sea has more traffic - sailboats and cruise ships, water skiiers, dinghys, fabulous yachts plowing gracefully through, sleek and white against the ancient land and waterscapes.
I follow the signs to the island of Korcula, 70 miles from the mainland on the Peljesac penninsula, which is only prevented from being an island itself becuase it is connected by a narrow isthmus that has become a well-known oyster area. Ston and Mali Ston (old Ston) is a salt-producing town and the medieval center is protected by a 5.5 kilometer long wall. In it is one of the best places to get oysters in Croatia, the Kaptanova Kucha restaurant in the old town looking out into the bay.
It's a fancy place and well known, and as well as Croatians, there are Italians, Germans, and French enjoying their leisurely lunches. I order a half-dozen oysters and the special grilled fish, and am offerred first a fish pate that is delicious and served on perfect toast. The oysters come and they are beautiful - extremely fresh with the tang of the salty Adriatic and just a bit crunchy.
The fish is some firm steak like swordfish and it is cooked in the local salt and perhaps some spices but the flavors mix to make it reminiscent of tamari. It is served with steamed potatos and dark greens - simple, as it should be. A generous lettuce and carrot salad garnish serve as a palate cleanser before a very nice "Dubrovnik creme caramel."
On the road again I gasp into my helmet at every turn, every view, "wow!" and "no way!" because who could have imagined what nature has carved and for what...is it random or a plan. Motorcycle touring is perfect for creating questions that cannot be answered.
